AudioGod's ASUS ROG STRIX X570-E GAMING - Big Sur & Monterey Beta - OpenCore 0.7.4 EFI

Galve2000

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Sep 19, 2020
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3.2 Gen 1 is only 10GB/s, which at best can transfer about 1GB/s.

Yes I know, which is why I believe thunderbolt is actually working on my system.

I usually don’t care about purely cosmetic stuff working perfectly on a hackintosh — things like internal drives looking like external drives and vice versa — but my enclosure is not showing up in System Profiler when it is connected via thunderbolt so it is difficult to know if things are working.

When connected via USB -C 3.1 Gen 2, it does show up in the USB section of System Profiler.

When connected by Thunderbolt, the drive only shows up under the Storage Devices section. But that section is silent on connection speed, which is the info I’m after.

Anecdotally however, it seems that the read & write speeds I’m getting point to thunderbolt being active.

I have a few more pics of black magic disk speed results I want to post..

Stay tuned.
 

Galve2000

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Sep 19, 2020
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here's what happens when my enclosure is connected to the front panel USB-C header:

DiskSpeedTest USB-C header.png

and here is what happens when you connect the same enclosure to a real 2017 iMacPro with thunderbolt:

DiskSpeedTest IMac Acasis 080422.PNG

for review... it's pretty similar to what happens if I plug it into the Thunderbolt port of my Hackintosh:

DiskSpeedTest Ryzentosh TB3 08.04.22.png

actually, it's even faster on the Hackintosh... good old MapleRidge TB controller and/or 5950X pushing the data...
 

Edhawk

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May 2, 2020
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Your front Type-C port will only work at 1GB/s as stated previously. So with standard overheads the speeds you are seeing in the first screenshot above are to my mind fairly standard. They are what you should expect from a motherboard Type-E header, serving a case front Type-C port.

The other two speed tests are good for a PCIe 3.0/TB3 port.
 

Galve2000

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Sep 19, 2020
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so I have some news, and it's not great...

given that I have thunderbolt (mostly) working (except for hot-plug) I thought I'd move my hackintosh from my test bench where I have been tinkering with it for the past 2 months to it's semi permeant home next to the TV in my living room. I have a 77 inch LG GX and I figured I could use said TV to troubleshoot 120 Hz refresh rate which would be the final mod I would have to do to get this mackintosh as fully functional as I needed it to be.

when I 1st connected the TV to the HDMI out of my 6900 XT the display came to life immediately. I got to log in screen and I was overjoyed to see that the HDR logo popped up on my LG.. which I honestly wasn't expecting. I was super excited.

unfortunately that's when my joy ended. all very short-lived indeed.

as soon as I typed in my password and hit enter, the hackintosh spontaneously rebooted.

so much for HDR!

anyway, no big deal. powered up again and this time I made it all the way to the desktop.

I went right to settings to look at the Display settings and ... everything crashed again.

I did see I was at 60 Hz with HDR on, but I couldn't tinker with any of the settings.

so I powered up again and went to the sound settings. i switched output from "internal speakers" to HDMI, but before I could try testing the sound effects I crashed again.

this was getting tedious.

sometimes I would have to manually reboot bc it was frozen, and sometimes it would reboot on it's own.

all in all i was able to watch about 25 seconds of a 4K YouTube video, so I know sound is working.. and the TV looks stunning, not that I have been able to do anything with it. the most amount of uptime between crashes and reboots has been less than 45 or 50 seconds.

i'm a little bit sad about this.

my end game for this hackitosh was to connect it to an LG 48CX or 48C1 but if my specialty binned 6900XT cannot handle being connected to the same tv that I already own, i'm thinking twice about rushing out to get the new TV just for this hackintosh.

the hackintosh works totally fine with my 12 year old Dell 2209 IPS monitor that I have on my test bench, but i didn't buy a 6900 XT to be limited to 1680 x 1050 resolution!

worst of all, the hackintosh works perfectly with Windows 11, so I know it is not a hardware issue.

the other thing I discovered was that my Intel i225-V onboard 2.5 ethernet is not working, although it is recognized my MacOS out of the box, it will not actually connect. (of course it connects perfectly fine under Windows 11)

I have a USB-C to HDMI dongle that I also tried connecting the hackitosh to the TV with, but it doesn't help. My motherboard ships with a 1ft long DP to DP cable that you connect the graphics card to the motherboard so video can be piped through thunderbolt/USB-C, but it behaves exactly the same way as when connected HDMI to HDMI. i ordered a thudnerbolt to HDMI cable to test, but I do not think there will be an improvement.

my 6900XT is just not playing nice at 4K under hackintosh.

I found as SSDT-i225v somewhere and will add the boot arg dk.e1000=0, but for now I cannot tinker with my EFI until I get this hackitosh back on my test bench and connected to my old IPS monitor.

do you guys have any idea why Monterey 12.5 is rebooting or freezing when connected to my OLED? are any of you running 4K resolution with your hackintosh? is there something I might try?

I'm so sad about this.
 
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johnlietzke

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223
I would trying reading up on the HDMI issue with MacOS Monterey. If I recall correctly there were some issues with HDMI on the Hackintosh. Uncertain if they have been resolved in later releases of Monterey as I use primarily DisplayPort.

I have used HDMI on both the TV in the garage to ensure the system is working and on the 65 inch 120MHz Samsung in my condo. They both work without a problem.

Most notably there is a long standing issue with USB-C display stability on the 6800, 6800 XT and 6900 XT. Even Apple’s own Mac Pro 6000 series GPUs have this problem. The GPU manufacturer of the Apple specific GPUs recommends not using USB-C for display. The same problems occur with Linux systems running AMD 6000 GPUs with USB-C displays.
 
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Galve2000

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I have used HDMI on both the TV in the garage to ensure the system is working and on the 65 inch 120MHz Samsung in my condo. They both work without a problem.

what graphics card are you using?

One thing I haven't tried is resetting NVRAM also I updated to 12.5 using software update. It worked fine. and again on my old 22 inch IPS monitor everything was working fine. (the IPS monitor is connected via HDMI with a HDMI to DVI converter dongle.
 
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johnlietzke

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223
what graphics card are you using?

One thing I haven't tried is resetting NVRAM also I updated to 12.5 using software update. It worked fine. and again on my old 22 inch IPS monitor everything was working fine. (the IPS monitor is connected via HDMI with a HDMI to DVI converter dongle.

Sapphire Nitro+ 6800 XT with EK Quantum waterblock. OverClocked from 2250 to 2650MHz, UnderVolted from 1150mv to 990mv, maximum power draw of 323 watts.
 

Galve2000

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Sep 19, 2020
Messages
37
Sapphire Nitro+ 6800 XT with EK Quantum waterblock. OverClocked from 2250 to 2650MHz, UnderVolted from 1150mv to 990mv, maximum power draw of 323 watts.

Nice card!

Did you have to patch the sapphire nitro+ at all to get it to work?

I had to patch my Power Color 6900 XT to get hardware acceleration/metal to work but it was easy. I can’t imagine that the card is somehow overheating after a few seconds of OS X, because it works perfectly with my OLED TV in Windows 11. It even works with the USB-C dongle in Windows 11. I’m going to go try resetting NV ram now and using a Thunderbolt to HDMI dongle
 

KemikalHalo

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May 28, 2020
Messages
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Hi, first thanks to all those for their hard work on this. I am hoping someone can help me. I was able to install Monterrey 12.5 and it get it up and running. iCloud, WiFi Calling and iMessage all work, I have yet to be able to get unlocking with Apple Watch to work and haven't tried some of the others. My biggest problem is I can't keep the machine running for more than 5-10 minutes before it randomly reboots. My EFI and latest log are included. Bios settings are set as per the initial post on the most recent bios update. One thing to note, under boot->Secure Boot->OS Type I have to select "Other OS" or I get an error from the bios when trying to boot that says "Invalid signature detected. Check Secure boot policy in setup." with Windows UEFI selected. Any help the community can give is greatly appreciated!

System Specs:
ASUS ROG STRIX x570-E Gaming WiFi II
Ryzen 3900x
Sapphire Pulse RX 5700 XT
2 x 16 G-Skill Tridentz at 3600
NZXT X53 RGB AIO controlled by liquidctl
Fenvi T919 for BT and WiFi
1 Corsair 600 1TB NVME for windows
1 Corsair 600 1TB for Monterrey
6 HGST 4GB 3.5 inch drives, 5 for a raid setup and 1 for time machine
Opencore 8.3
 

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johnlietzke

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Messages
223
Nice card!

Did you have to patch the sapphire nitro+ at all to get it to work?

I had to patch my Power Color 6900 XT to get hardware acceleration/metal to work but it was easy. I can’t imagine that the card is somehow overheating after a few seconds of OS X, because it works perfectly with my OLED TV in Windows 11. It even works with the USB-C dongle in Windows 11. I’m going to go try resetting NV ram now and using a Thunderbolt to HDMI dongle

There was a beta release or two of Monterey where a patch was needed to get normal metal scores where a patch was needed. But that was only one time where a patch was needed.

I don’t think your card is over heating.

USB-C/Thunder Bolt for display is a know issue with MacOS. Even on the 6000 series cards purchased directly through Apple.

You could try setting your refresh rate on another monitor to 120MHz on another monitor or TV first before plugging it into your TV. Or getting a DisplayPort to HDMI adapter.
 

Galve2000

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Sep 19, 2020
Messages
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’m going to go try resetting NV ram now and using a Thunderbolt to HDMI dongle

So I ended up ordering the wrong kind of thunderbolt to HDMI dongle.. I needed a female HDMI dongle and accidentally ordered a male. since my OLED is already hanging on the wall, reaching a free HDMI port to plug in the male HDMI cable is kind of a pain...

BUT...

Last week, when I was looking to troubleshoot thunderbolt issues I ordered an ACASIS USB-C NVME enclosure hub that includes ethernet and HDMI by accident thinking it was the thunderbolt enclosure.

since I didn't have a thunderbolt to HDMI dongle I could use right now, on a whim I said.. let me try the HDMI port of the ACASIS USB-C hub. it would give me a chance to test the ethernet port on the hub as well.

I was apprehensive, especially since some of you had mentioned that using display port and piping it through the Thunderbolt port is not ideal... BUT...

wouldn't you know it..? it works!

the display defaults to 1920 x 1080.. but I can push it all the way to 3840 x 2160 without issue. (incidentally, 3840 x2160 is the "recommended" resolution under windows 11 as well, but I can push it all the way to 4096 x 2160 in windows without issue with or without any USB-C Hub.

I'm sitting about 8 from away from the screen and ironically 1920 x 1080 is the most comfortable resolution.

youtube videos in chrome run at 2160 and look amazing.

as I type this, the dreaded "screen darkening" thing that LG OLEDs like to do just happened to me. but it's late here and i'm using night mode so it wasn't too jarring when everything suddenly brightened up.

one last data point..

sitting between my hackintosh and my OLED is this HDMI scaler/splitter thing that was originally meant to send the audio fm my Apple TV 4K to my 12 year old AVR that freaks out when it sees a 4K video signal (the splitter spoofs a fake 1080p video signal to the AVR so that it will accept the audio signal, and then the 4K video signal is sent separately to the LG OLED. I have a SH_ARC device so that I can play the audio from my SMART TV apps from the OLED on my old school AVR, so I don't actually need the splitter, but everything seems more stable with the splitter in place. unfortunately this splitter maxes out at 60 Hz, so I cannot attempt a 120 Hz video signal which is my ultimate goal.

tomorrow I will remove the splitter and plug the HDMI cable from the OLED directly into the ACASIS USB-C hub, but I think the hub maxes out at 60 Hz as well, so it won't make a difference.
 

johnlietzke

Active member
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Jul 7, 2021
Messages
223
So I ended up ordering the wrong kind of thunderbolt to HDMI dongle.. I needed a female HDMI dongle and accidentally ordered a male. since my OLED is already hanging on the wall, reaching a free HDMI port to plug in the male HDMI cable is kind of a pain...

BUT...

Last week, when I was looking to troubleshoot thunderbolt issues I ordered an ACASIS USB-C NVME enclosure hub that includes ethernet and HDMI by accident thinking it was the thunderbolt enclosure.

since I didn't have a thunderbolt to HDMI dongle I could use right now, on a whim I said.. let me try the HDMI port of the ACASIS USB-C hub. it would give me a chance to test the ethernet port on the hub as well.

I was apprehensive, especially since some of you had mentioned that using display port and piping it through the Thunderbolt port is not ideal... BUT...

wouldn't you know it..? it works!

the display defaults to 1920 x 1080.. but I can push it all the way to 3840 x 2160 without issue. (incidentally, 3840 x2160 is the "recommended" resolution under windows 11 as well, but I can push it all the way to 4096 x 2160 in windows without issue with or without any USB-C Hub.

I'm sitting about 8 from away from the screen and ironically 1920 x 1080 is the most comfortable resolution.

youtube videos in chrome run at 2160 and look amazing.

as I type this, the dreaded "screen darkening" thing that LG OLEDs like to do just happened to me. but it's late here and i'm using night mode so it wasn't too jarring when everything suddenly brightened up.

one last data point..

sitting between my hackintosh and my OLED is this HDMI scaler/splitter thing that was originally meant to send the audio fm my Apple TV 4K to my 12 year old AVR that freaks out when it sees a 4K video signal (the splitter spoofs a fake 1080p video signal to the AVR so that it will accept the audio signal, and then the 4K video signal is sent separately to the LG OLED. I have a SH_ARC device so that I can play the audio from my SMART TV apps from the OLED on my old school AVR, so I don't actually need the splitter, but everything seems more stable with the splitter in place. unfortunately this splitter maxes out at 60 Hz, so I cannot attempt a 120 Hz video signal which is my ultimate goal.

tomorrow I will remove the splitter and plug the HDMI cable from the OLED directly into the ACASIS USB-C hub, but I think the hub maxes out at 60 Hz as well, so it won't make a difference.

The USB-C/Thunder Bolt on the GPU is a know issue on Unix based system like MacOS and Linux.

Again Apple’s own supplier of 6000 series GPU recommends not using the USB-C port on the GPU.

Unless you have the skill set to write the drivers required for USB-C display to work, which Apple’s own engineers have been unable to get to work consistently you will more than likely be persistently plagued by problems.

Another method of connection such as a direct connection from an HDMI port or DisplayPort -> HDMI adapter on the GPU will be the simplest and most stable way to get your TV connected.
 

johnlietzke

Active member
Joined
Jul 7, 2021
Messages
223
Hi, first thanks to all those for their hard work on this. I am hoping someone can help me. I was able to install Monterrey 12.5 and it get it up and running. iCloud, WiFi Calling and iMessage all work, I have yet to be able to get unlocking with Apple Watch to work and haven't tried some of the others. My biggest problem is I can't keep the machine running for more than 5-10 minutes before it randomly reboots. My EFI and latest log are included. Bios settings are set as per the initial post on the most recent bios update. One thing to note, under boot->Secure Boot->OS Type I have to select "Other OS" or I get an error from the bios when trying to boot that says "Invalid signature detected. Check Secure boot policy in setup." with Windows UEFI selected. Any help the community can give is greatly appreciated!

System Specs:
ASUS ROG STRIX x570-E Gaming WiFi II
Ryzen 3900x
Sapphire Pulse RX 5700 XT
2 x 16 G-Skill Tridentz at 3600
NZXT X53 RGB AIO controlled by liquidctl
Fenvi T919 for BT and WiFi
1 Corsair 600 1TB NVME for windows
1 Corsair 600 1TB for Monterrey
6 HGST 4GB 3.5 inch drives, 5 for a raid setup and 1 for time machine
Opencore 8.3

Did your make the EFI yourself from scratch or use a pre-made one?

Other OS is what I use also to avoid the Invalid Signature.
 

johnlietzke

Active member
Joined
Jul 7, 2021
Messages
223
Funny enough I used your 0.8.2 EFI here as a starting point and then updated to 0.8.3 and added the gpu temp monitoring kexts.

My pre release of 0.8.3 was working when I left for my trip and will not be back for another 2 weeks or so to do the final release.

I don’t know if any breaking changes have happened in Monterey since the pre release of 0.8.3 was made. I have not booted into Monterey for more than a minute to test the EFI since a few days after the initial Ventura beta came out. So it could be the EFI’s Monterey compatibility.

First thing to try is disabling the GPU kext. If it is not from the original EFI.

The simplest thing to do is to downgrade 0.8.2 EFI to determine if it is a Monterey compatibility issue. It still includes the EXT4 but not file BRTFS for Linux. The only changes to 0.8.3 that would be relevant to Monterey is native OpenCore file support for EXT4. But this is already covered in the 0.8.2 release.
 
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KemikalHalo

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May 28, 2020
Messages
11
My pre release of 0.8.3 was working when I left for my trip and will not be back for another 2 weeks or so to do the final release.

I don’t know if any breaking changes have happened in Monterey since the pre release of 0.8.3 was made. I have not booted into Monterey for more than a minute to test the EFI since a few days after the initial Ventura beta came out. So it could be the EFI’s Monterey compatibility.

First thing to try is disabling the GPU kext. If it is not from the original EFI.

The simplest thing to do is to downgrade 0.8.2 EFI to determine if it is a Monterey compatibility issue. It still includes the EXT4 but not file BRTFS for Linux. The only changes to 0.8.3 that would be relevant to Monterey is native OpenCore file support for EXT4. But this is already covered in the 0.8.2 release.

At this time the Internet on the cruise ship is so bad I am unable to open the log. Hopefully it will improve shortly so I can take a look.
Enjoy your cruise and stop responding :) In the meantime I will try disabling any non-required kexts and then re-enable one by one to see if I can figure out anything. Thanks for the insight.
 

Galve2000

Member
Joined
Sep 19, 2020
Messages
37
Unless you have the skill set to write the drivers required for USB-C display to work, which Apple’s own engineers have been unable to get to work consistently you will more than likely be persistently plagued by problems.

I have no such skills.

However, I have made substantial progress using basic trail and error.

I unplugged the HDMI splitter that I use spoof my aging AVR into thinking it is receiving a 1080P video signal along with the Audio.

SHARC is now sending all the Audio to my AVR and the Hackitosh is connected directly to the TV.

so the 1st thing I did was connect the HDMI cable to the ACASIS USB-C hub and everything was working fine. literally no change from using the HDMI splitter.

then, I thought I should take @johnlietzke 's advice and try to once again connect the 6900 XT HDMI directly to the OLED.

I can't believe it. it actually worked!!

The HDMI cable I am using is not actually 8K rated. it was passed though the wall of my home theater setup in December 2009. I will say that it was a high quality cable for its day. It was actually the "backup" connection between my AVR and my old Pioneer Kuro, but I repurposed it to connect my AppleTV 4K directly to the OLED once I retired the Kuro.

I also downloaded SwichResX and have been playing around with the settings a bit that way, I can only guess that this is what made the random reboots when the OLED is connected directly to the 6900 XT

here's something crazy that I have been able to accomplish:



3840 x2160 @120 Hz and even crazier, HDR is still active!! YAY!

text is kind of harder to read at 120 Hz than it is at 60 Hz so I may switch back.. but I am so so pleased with how this is progressing.

the only negative so far is literally the OpenCore screen at boot. I wish I had taken a pic to share here. the images of the available boot partitions (Windows or macOS) look a bit "squished" when the HDMi cable is connected directly to the 6900 XT. but once it boots into macOS everything looks totally normal the verbose mode stuff looks fine to.

(when connected to the ACASIS hub or the HDMI splitter, the OC boot screen looks perfect) I don't know if the aging HDMI cable I am using is to blame or if the splitter and hub provide a bit of processing that makes everything look just right, but it hardly matters, I am not concerned with cosmetic things like that b/c macOS is running beautifully.

last thing: text is a little bit more difficult to read at 120 Hz vs 60 Hz and I wonder again if it is my aging HDMI cable that is to blame. unfortunately the 8K rated HDMI cable I use with the SH-ARC is about 6 inches too short to be plugged into my Hackintosh.

my next step is to run a new, longer 8K rated HDMI cable though the wall and possibly replace the older HDMI cables.

I do wonder if that will give me better results.
 
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